Winter Silence in the Rock Towns
Winter in Northern Bohemia is not only about skiing and cross-country trails. Even in the colder months, there are plenty of places worth visiting, and the rock towns are among the most impressive. This is when their atmosphere, striking rock formations and views across the landscape stand out most clearly. Winter Silence in the Rock Towns takes you into the heart of Bohemian Paradise, where sandstone towers, forests and viewpoints are connected by easy routes suitable for winter outings. We have prepared three tips where you can experience Northern Bohemia at its calmest and most natural.
1) Hruboskalsko
Undoubtedly one of the most popular destinations in Bohemian Paradise is Hruboskalsko, which offers several routes and circuits of varying lengths. You can start directly in Turnov, where the red hiking trail leads via the newly renovated rock viewpoint Hlavatice to Valdštejn Castle. If you set out at the weekend and are lucky, the local pub makes a welcome stop to warm up and recharge. From here, you can choose according to your energy and available time. The shorter option follows the green trail back to Turnov. For a longer walk, continue on the red trail towards Hrubá Skála, passing the popular Na Kapelu and U Lvíčka viewpoints. The red trail gradually brings you to the Bukovina Arboretum and then to the junction near Adamovo lože. From there, descend the steps along the blue trail and pass through the narrow rock corridor known as Myší díra, emerging directly beside Hrubá Skála Chateau. You can then choose your return route to Turnov. Follow the blue trail to the Osudová junction, where you can either continue along the green trail to Sedmihorky or stay on the blue trail towards the village of Hrubá Skála. Trains run conveniently back to Turnov from both places, making this a pleasant and flexible trip without having to retrace your steps.
2) Besedice Rocks
Our second tip is the Besedice Rocks, where you can follow the easy Dr Edvard Beneš Circuit, ideal for families with children. The best place to start is the car park in the village of Besedice. Begin on the red hiking trail, which soon changes to blue. It leads into the Kalich rock maze, where the Besedice Viewpoint awaits at the very beginning - the first of many scenic stops. After passing through the maze, join the yellow trail and enter the area known as Chléviště, with attractive views over the surrounding countryside. Along the way, you will encounter several named viewpoints, including Kde domov můj, Husník Viewpoint and Kinský Viewpoint, each offering a slightly different perspective on the nearby rocks and forests. The circuit ends at a viewpoint overlooking Suché skály, sometimes nicknamed the “Czech Dolomites” - a sight you should not miss. The entire route is approximately 3.5 kilometres long, well marked and suitable for older children. Expect a few steps and narrow rock passages, which add an adventurous touch. And if your legs still have some energy left, extend the trip from the car park by following the red trail to Hamštejn, one of the newest lookout towers in Bohemian Paradise.
3) Klokočí Rocks
The final circuit we have planned takes you to a less familiar part of Bohemian Paradise, the Klokočí Rocks. This route is approximately 7.5 kilometres long and is ideal for anyone looking for a quieter outing away from the busiest places. Start at the car park in Záholice and follow the red hiking trail to the first point of interest, Zdenčina skála Viewpoint. It offers a pleasant view towards Dolánky and the Jizera River, making it well worth a short pause. Return to the route and continue on the red trail to the Klokočí Passages, one of the most fascinating places in the area. After exploring them, return to the junction and take the yellow trail towards Postojna Cave, the largest pseudokarst cave in Bohemian Paradise. Save your visit for the warmer part of the year, however: during winter it serves as a hibernation site for bats and is therefore closed to the public. The yellow trail then leads to the village of Bukovina, where you can see the local chapel before returning to the car park in Záholice along a short section of road. As this circuit is less well known than the previous routes, you are likely to enjoy its winter atmosphere almost without crowds, surrounded by the silence of the rocks and forest.
So where will you go - to the livelier Hruboskalsko, the family-friendly Besedice Rocks or the peaceful corners of the Klokočí Rocks? Silence, frosty air and empty paths give these outings a special charm that is hard to experience at any other time of year. And should three rock towns not be enough, you can easily extend your travels beyond the regional border: the Prachov Rocks and Příhrazské Rocks are only a short distance away. Winter is the perfect opportunity to see familiar places from a fresh perspective and to discover that Northern Bohemia offers peace and beauty outside the main tourist season too.
